I recently had a visit from some distinguished German winemakers, who claim this is the closest wine to a German style they had seen in this country. Nice praise.
With its long ripening season, grown at the Nullo Mountain vineyard (1100 metres elevation) the fruit was harvested in Autumn with about 15 per cent botrytis. The grapes never fully develop the fungus as it is too cold at this time of year, so acidity and sugar are the primary drivers.
Having analysis of 92 g/L sugar, and 12% alcohol, the wine is leaning toward the Auslese category. It shows lime, lemon and citrus with a ground orange peel finish that mitigates the sweetness. It certainly works with fresh fruit, but well chilled it would suit as an aperitif. If you decided to cellar this wine it will benefit both the wine and you, since the first one that was made in 2004 is now at its peak ten years on.
Variety: 100% Riesling
Region: Nullo Mountain Vineyard, 1100m, Mudgee NSW
Tasting notes: Enjoy marmalade and peel aromas, sweet with natural refreshing acidity to counterbalance. Be surprised by the occasion as this wine complements Asian influence dishes, fruity and creamy desserts or just on its own – served really cold.
Cellaring: If you are lucky enough to have tried the 2004 Nullo Mountain Riesling you will see the familiarity with this wine. Drink now or over the next 10 years and you will be delighted.
Huon Hooke, Sydney Morning Herald, The NSW All Stars, 3 January 2015
David Lowe has been making wine in the Hunter and Mudgee for more than 35 years, latterly focusing on his family's organically managed farm Mudgee. He recently combined his business with the high-altitude Louee vineyards at Rylstone and Nullo Mountain, all inside the Mudgee GI, the latter growing very fine white grapes at 1180 metres altitude. I don't recall a better wine from this vineyard than the 2013 late harvest riesling. With a bright, light green-yellow hue and a superbly lifted honeysuckle aroma, with evidence of botrytis which re-appears more strongly on the palate, it's very sweet and honeyed, with delicious late-harvest flavour and charm aplenty. 94 POINTS
Mike Bennie, WBM Magazine, April 2015:
"From 1180 metres above sea leveland the steady hand of David Lowe. Reeks of oranges, honey and green apples. Shows richness and depth of flavour, but it's the steely cut of cool climate, high elevation acidity htat gives it flair. Feels steely and cool. 92 POINTS"
Ralph Kyte-Powell, Sydney Morning Herald, 31 January 2015
Among the unsung heroes of modern Australian wine are sweet whites. These delicious, high-sugar drops offer a dazzling array of aromas and flavours, and usually evolve in complexity and interest with age. This example, from a high-altitude vineyard near Mudgee, has a honeyed, sweet aroma, hinting at flowers and candied citrus peel with a dab of botrytis influence. It’s rich and lush in the mouth with light, slightly firm structure and a zesty finish.
James Halliday, Wine Companion March 2014
Extremely rich and luscious, and it's not easy to see how much residual sugar can be in the wine and yet have an alcohol of 12.3%. Nonetheless, I suppose one shouldn't look a gift horse in the mouth, and one sure way of dealing with the problem is to cellar the wine for between 5-10 years, giving time for the sweetness to be ameliorated. Alternatively, drink it now with a nice rich dessert. 92 POINTS, Drink by 2030
Tony Keys, The Key Report, January 2015
There is nothing wrong with sweetness so long as it’s all in balance. This is and boy it's some wine. It gently caresses the palate as it glides across it and the finish lasts forever. 95 points and well worth the $30 asked.
John Lewis, Newcastle Herald, September 2014
More riesling and semillon makers are putting out “off-dry” wines. These have retained residual sugar to entice drinkers who like a touch of sweetness rather than the more austere classic-style rieslings and semillons. David Lowe let the Nullo Mountain vineyard grapes ripen longer to build up sugar and to develop botrytis on about 15 per cent of the crop. The result is a wine that shines bright lemon in the glass and has honeycomb scents. The front palate introduces ripe quince flavour and orange peel, cloves and honey and toast characters join in on the middle. Sweet fruitiness and a touch of flinty acid mix at the finish. It can be bought on lowewines.com.au, at the Tinja Lane, Mudgee, cellar door and in some wine shops. 4.5 Glasses.